A Day as big as Daibutsu . M&D day 5

The Imperial Palace in Tokyo is open to the public on only two occasions during the year; the 23^rd of December for the Emperor Akihito birthday and today, the 2^nd of January for the Imperial Family New year address. So we headed on the Yamanote line to Tokyo station, activated mum and dads japan rail pass and wandered towards the huge open expanse of the Imperial Palace grounds where thousands of people of all ages where gathering. The Emperor gives a number of addresses throughout the day and we were pleased that the enormous amount of people seemed to be moving consistently. So we were handed our paper flags of Japan and nestled into the que. After a few security checks we crossed the canal bridge and approached the mammoth walls of the East Gate. There was an odd buzz about the experience, nothing quite like any us had experienced before. We made our way through the interior grounds and found a fairly good viewing spot amongst the masses. Mum is vertically challenged in the Australian context however, here in Japan she seemed to be happy. The crowd waited not long for the Imperial family to come out into their bullet proof enclosure and all at once the national flag was flown by all…in an odd silence. The Imperial family seemed to be delighted (from where I was standing) with the scene before them, and after a minute or so the flags lowered and the Emperors gentle voiced graced everyone’s ears.  Surprisingly the speech was quite short however succinct in his wishes for those who suffered greatly from the great east Japan earthquake and prays that this year will be positive for all.

“There are great concerns for the people who are still going hardships from the disaster. As the rebuilding of the affected areas continue, it is my wish that this year will be a better year for each and every person of this nation” English Translation

After the speech was over we were all shuffled out to let the next crowd of well-wishers in. It was now only midday therefore I had a change of plans and decided we had just enough time to head to Kamakura for the afternoon. So we headed to Tokyo station and onto JR Yokosuka line. After sorting out the green car system we settled in for the pleasant south bound journey.  The train hostess’ politeness and well-drilled routine of turning to face the passengers and bowing before closing the carriage door really impressed us all. Worlds apart from the Melbourne ticket inspectors.

We arrived at Kita-Kamakura station and after ogling at the surrounds for a moment or so and sorting out our tickets we wandered down the road toward the beginning of our planned hike. The small scale and unique character of Kamakura could already be distinguished. Barely post-war homes lined the street that was void of a proper footpath and small shops where selling a range of knick knacks and handmade clothing accessories. We decided to grab lunch before we set-off and found cute restaurant which had interesting bean curries and omelets on the menu.  The pleasant waiter was proud to express that she made the crafty textile menu covers.  After our delicious meals we set off for the hike. I had been researching up on the trail for a few days as there are a few to choose from, keeping in mind Dad’s cumbersome knee. This was a great reference http://yamaonna.wordpress.com/2009/10/28/kamakura-daibutsu/

We paced ourselves from start to end, stopping to take in the peaceful environment at times and ogle at interesting properties. The trail runs on a long ridge from Kita-Kamkura Station ending at the famous giant Buddha Daibutsu, and is not a common thing to do when visiting Kamakura, therefore crossed paths with very few people: a peaceful change from this morning’s heaving Imperial Palace. The terrain was a little more undulating as what I had read and Dad was remaining optimistic however I identified his knee was bothering him. Mum well…she was a having a ball. We had fortunate weather and the setting sun was bathing the trail in a warm glow and by the time we finally reached the stunning Daibutsu we had just enough time to see it in full light. We took a rest then wandered slowly toward Hase station, popping into various small pottery, rice cracker and sweet shops. Night had well and truly fallen by the time we boarded the twin-carriage Enoshima Electric Railway to Kamakura station. We then again boarded the JR Yokosuka line back to Shinagawa Station. 

A close friend of mine from Melbourne had just arrived and we had arranged to catch up for dinner this-evening in Shinjuku. I thought it would be great to from quaint Kamakura to a throbbing Shinjuku to blast Mum and Dads senses. After some confusion about the meeting spot in Shinjuku (easily done), L and I were thrilled to see each other. So then Mum, Dad, L and I decided to have a DIY bbq feast at Don Don Yakiniku Restaurant Kabukicho. After a long stroll around the shady parts of Kabukicho (it is what it is at that time of the night) L and I then escorted Mum and Dad back to Shimbashi station via the Yamanote Line. L and I decided to make a dash to Beat Café in Shibuya for an hour so however it was closed so instead we chatted over a few beers at the downstairs gaijin speakeasy. We then parted ways to each catch the last train back to our respective hotels, however the damn Yamanote line terminated 4 stations of Shimabshi so I caught a cab the rest of the way. To wind down after another big day, I turned off the lights, slumped in the armchair and just stared out at the Tokyo landscape.

  

 

Day One 2012 . M&D day 4

The attitude of the night was set by an intoxicated Japanese gentleman on the Yamanote line train. At first he sat swaying back and forth in a drunken slumber, then he decided to pull himself up, pirouette, then slump solidly against the doors and lastly slide down gradually to assume an incapacitated fetal position on the floor. His mum would be proud. I did fear for head as it was precariously close to the opening and closing doors. However it was also amusing to see the reactions of the awaiting passengers to step on the train having responding to the odd hurdle they have to overcome once the doors opened. As I arrived at the epicentre of debauchery; Shibuya, I thought my night was heading straight to hell. I crossed Shibuya crossing amongst the thousands of New Year revelers to find Inkashira Dori (a main string in the Shibuya web) filled with bodies and debris. I made my way through the mayhem towards Bar IssHee to meet some friends from uni. As I made my way up the twirling stairs, enthusiastic voices and layers of music bounced off the walls signaling healthy activity. I found B waiting for me out the front of the bar and we greeted each other like long lost warriors; big bro hugs all round. He was full of beans and ready to party. We headed in to find the tiny bar comfortably full and mostly with familiar faces. Until around 3:30 or so, we all screamed at each other, danced to soulful classics like lunatics and drank consistently. My Macedonain compatriot N was as liberated as I have ever seen represented by his decision to bash on the establishments drum kit. After a few minutes his band of monkeys deciding to bash on them as well, the owner swooped in and shooed them all away. B and I decided to head up to our new favorite watering hole the Beat Café. We found it packed as usual with a mix of counter culture Gaijins and Japanese. We quickly came into meaningless discussion with a couple of people for the next hour or so. I was required to get back to the hotel for a 7:30am departure to Mt.Fuji and Hakone day trip so I suggested we head off. B agreed and we ducked back down stairs to say goodbye however most people had left as it was around 6am by this stage. B and I headed to Shibuya station and boarded the Yamanonte to Tokyo. B parted with me at some station I can’t remember, and I did the fatal thing by sitting down. I fell into a slumber and woke up realizing I had done the full loop on Yamonote (which takes 50 minutes or so) and 7:30am was now fast approaching. I finally managed to get off at Shimbashi and head up to the hotel room by 7:29 to receive my wakeup call from mum at 7:30am…Mum was not proud. 

After I showered and reset my body, Mum Dad & I headed to Hamamtsucho bus terminal to join our booked tour. We headed off towards Mt.Fuji and I quickly fell asleep for the first 2 hour bus leg of the journey.  I woke up at the optimal viewing time and was simply stunned by the Mt.Fuji. With dense suburbs in the foreground, I immediately thought about the destruction it will cause when it next erupts. Our destination was the 5^th station of Mt Fuji and after a quick viewing stop, an hour more on the bus and we arrived at the icey fifth station. At 2,300 metres the 5^th station provided wonderful overs the Ft.Fuji area and towards the Japan alps in the North West.  After a quick whiz around the souvenir shop we where back onto the bus descending to the lunch location. After a delicious mixed bento of traditional Japanese favourites like sashimi and udon where again on our way to Lake Ashi. Unfortunately this time of the year is at time colorless with the deciduous trees completely bare. The Lake Ashi cuise was worthwhile nonetheless; I was quite amused by the creepy remnants of a 80’s lake side theme park holiday destination. The pedal operated lake swans, decomposed mr whippy van and creepy animal farm with a chained up Labrador was odd to say the least. After the cruise was the enjoyable ropeway ride to the top of mount Komagatake. The peak ropeway station looked like a concrete folly from WWII that had fallen under disrepair. The views over the Hakone area where stunning despite the freezing temperatures. The journey home consisted of me sleeping more and then a quick dash for everyone from the bus to catch the Shinkansen back to Tokyo. 

We made it back to the hotel and despite my slumber I was due at Kengo Kuma’s house for a New Year celebration.  I managed to link up the Ginza line and the Tozai line to reach Kagurazaka station. From there it was a quick dash through the streets (because I was making 2 hour late cameo appearance) to find Kuma Sensei’s house. He emerged in the front glazed staircase and pointed in an upwards direction to the house. This implied to scale the three flights of external stairs to reach the top kitchen, dining and living areas. It was quite the entrance as the staircases linked 3 open terraces for the various floors all open to the night sky. Furthermore, the elevated site lent to sweeping views of the blazing Tokyo skyline. I was greeted by Kuma who was clearly fuzzy around the edges and he immediately introduced me to his wife and a full glass of red. Brilliant! For next hour I floated around grazing on the delicious food, chatted with Toudai colleagues and ended up watching a Korean pop group live DVD; the lads where quite attentive. By this time I had been awake for quite some time and was looking forward to hitting the sack and after stringing together the two metro lines again I passed out in my room 1518.

Last Day of Significant Year . M&D day 3

Today was the beginning of a 48 hour tourist and new year bender.  After heading out of the hotel and towards Ginza to check out the main drag, after realizing is was too early to experience the buzzing Ginza atmosphere I quickly made a change of plans to head to Yoyogi park and Meiji-Jingu Shrine instead. The weather was again beautiful and after stepping off the Yamanote train at Yoyogi station we headed for soba and then the park. We strolled through the park for about an hour or so, visiting Meiji-Jingu which was preparing for the New year masses. We ended up at the Harajuku end of the park by noon and proceeded to get amongst all the shopping pilgrims in Harajuku. After the peaceful nature of the park, Harajuku provided quite the contrast as Dad was quiet perplexed by the high pitched tone and persistence of the outlet girls screaming out various things. We made our way to the end of the main Harajuku spot and turned right to join on the parallel running Omotesando. We popped into a hat store and the Moma store before settling down for lunch at J.S burgers adjacent to the great gyouza place which was unfortunately closed. After a satisfying lunch, we continued East down Omtesando to see the remaining architectural icons of SANAA’s Dior building, Ando’s Omotesando Hills and Herzog&Demuron’s Prada building. We then jumped onto the Ginza Metro bound for Ginza. We emerged to the street level via the overwhelming Takashimya food section and began our stroll westerly on Chou-Dori. The street scape was lighting up by the time we hit my professors Tiffany&Co building however the vibe was of clam before the New Year storm.  After a coffee and scone break at a Café we wandered all the way back to our hotel in Shimbashi. After a nap we grabbed a taxi bound for Zojo-ji temple. Set in front of Tokyo tower, the Buddhist Zojo-ji temple was quite the spectacle and was alive with New Year pilgrims of all shapes, sizes and colors. We arrived close to eleven and people where pouring through the main gate prayer balloons in hand. Moved about and found a comfortable spot under the string of lanterns and large countdown clock. For the next hour or so we had to endure eavesdropping on boisterous Americans and Australians talking absolute garbage. I have to admit I have come across too many Australians overseas that portray us as boisterous bogans (annoying gaijins) who don’t give two bob about what is appropriate. Tonight was a key example. 

The time ticked closer towards 2012 and the speeches and vocal performances by the monks began. The atmosphere was unique given the vast range of cultures and New Year optimisms clashing in one arena. I can only imagine that the Japanese locals where wishing for a bright 2012. As we all know it has been a tragically significant year for the Japanese. The last ten minutes disappeared and the time came for the countdown and when 2012 arrived, 3000 balloons and blissful cheer erupted from the crowd. It was quite a moment. We all gazed at the prayer balloons disappearing into the night sky and then chuckled at the hundreds stuck in the surrounding trees. I finally got onto C who was somewhere in the crowd and my Parents and I managed to move out slowly and meet up with him and his female companion Y at the main gate. It was a quick hello and “happy new year” before the two parties went our separate ways. My Parents and I strolled back to the hotel, as I tried to establish over the phone where the rest of my New Years night was headed.