Hawks, Tea and Asakusa Pilgrims . M&D day 6

Starting early again, we jumped into a cab bound for Tsukiji fish market. L and I arranged for us to meet at the McDonalds on the corner near the entry, however I think google maps was a little confused but nonetheless we eventually located each other. As we approached the entry gate, a small congregation of people had gathered, distressed at the fact that there was no public visits allowed at all today. Oh well, roll on. The morning was crisp, and after observing Kisho Kurokawa’s  Nagakin Capsule tower our empty stomachs and chilled bodies found solace in ham and cheese toasties and coffee at a Tully’s franchise. L realised she needed to check out of her hotel so she bid adieu and rushed away. Next on the itinerary was to stroll through the Hamarikyu Gardens. Upon paying our entry fee the friendly ticket clerk pointed us in the direction of an annual hawking display about to begin. We found a comfortable viewing spot, read over the English flyer and waited patiently for the long announcements to end. Finally some action, and the Hawkers of a niche school lead by what seemed a very senior teacher showed their skill in choreographing the birds of prey to show their prowess. However one stubborn hawk decided chillin’ the tree was a much better idea. We watched for a while and then headed to the tea house on the lake for my parents first tea ceremony experience. They were humbled by the gardens beauty, delicious tea, red bean treat and the gentle and hospitable nature of the tea house personnel.  After chatting to some friendly locals, we put our shoes back on, made our way across the bridge and continued our discussion on the interesting nature of the pine trees in the garden. The Hamarikyu Garden poses an interesting and distinctly Metropolitan Japan garden setting of highly manicured landscape surrounded by tall and overwhelming structures of steel and glass. We then boarded the ferry for 40 minute cruise up the Sumida River. Now the Sumida River is no Teme or Grand Canal, it is banked by a swelling concrete landscape and rather charming stocky iron bridges of which there are 26. Tokyo in it’s Edo days was a large canal network as water travel was the best way to move around, and so the Sumida river is a branch of the larger Arakawa network which runs mainly under the cityscape we experience today. The view of the Tokyo landscape on the water allows for a refreshing foreground distance. Clear elevations of the buildings and layered infrastructure allow the passengers to comprehend the sheer mass and complexity of the Tokyo Megatropolis. 

We docked in at a heaving Asakusa. The New Year celebrations are in full swing, with hoards of people coming to bless in the New Year at the famous Buddhist Senso-ji temple. After lamenting Philippe Starck's Asahi Beer hall design and admiring the height of the Tokyo sky tree we headed through the Kaminarimon Gate towards the temple. The amount of people was something Mum had not experienced often and it was difficult to get into the many souvenir shops. It was a ‘pick a side and shuffle forward’ situation. The atmosphere was fantastic, people where happy, the sun was out, we were all experiencing something very foreign and festive. By the time we got to the Temple steps it was full scrum. Mum disappeared and Dad and I bustled our way through. We all threw our coins in the general direction everyone else was, and I then yanked mum out of the sardine jar and quickly existed the Temple. A bustling food market provided a well-deserved rest, delicious noodles, corn and Okonomiyake (Japanese omelet/pancake) of the epic persuasion.  We strolled through the interesting shops I bought a great pair Jika Tabi (Japanese work boots) and we eventually boarded the Ginza line back to Shinbashi chuffed by the day’s activities. 

A Day as big as Daibutsu . M&D day 5

The Imperial Palace in Tokyo is open to the public on only two occasions during the year; the 23^rd of December for the Emperor Akihito birthday and today, the 2^nd of January for the Imperial Family New year address. So we headed on the Yamanote line to Tokyo station, activated mum and dads japan rail pass and wandered towards the huge open expanse of the Imperial Palace grounds where thousands of people of all ages where gathering. The Emperor gives a number of addresses throughout the day and we were pleased that the enormous amount of people seemed to be moving consistently. So we were handed our paper flags of Japan and nestled into the que. After a few security checks we crossed the canal bridge and approached the mammoth walls of the East Gate. There was an odd buzz about the experience, nothing quite like any us had experienced before. We made our way through the interior grounds and found a fairly good viewing spot amongst the masses. Mum is vertically challenged in the Australian context however, here in Japan she seemed to be happy. The crowd waited not long for the Imperial family to come out into their bullet proof enclosure and all at once the national flag was flown by all…in an odd silence. The Imperial family seemed to be delighted (from where I was standing) with the scene before them, and after a minute or so the flags lowered and the Emperors gentle voiced graced everyone’s ears.  Surprisingly the speech was quite short however succinct in his wishes for those who suffered greatly from the great east Japan earthquake and prays that this year will be positive for all.

“There are great concerns for the people who are still going hardships from the disaster. As the rebuilding of the affected areas continue, it is my wish that this year will be a better year for each and every person of this nation” English Translation

After the speech was over we were all shuffled out to let the next crowd of well-wishers in. It was now only midday therefore I had a change of plans and decided we had just enough time to head to Kamakura for the afternoon. So we headed to Tokyo station and onto JR Yokosuka line. After sorting out the green car system we settled in for the pleasant south bound journey.  The train hostess’ politeness and well-drilled routine of turning to face the passengers and bowing before closing the carriage door really impressed us all. Worlds apart from the Melbourne ticket inspectors.

We arrived at Kita-Kamakura station and after ogling at the surrounds for a moment or so and sorting out our tickets we wandered down the road toward the beginning of our planned hike. The small scale and unique character of Kamakura could already be distinguished. Barely post-war homes lined the street that was void of a proper footpath and small shops where selling a range of knick knacks and handmade clothing accessories. We decided to grab lunch before we set-off and found cute restaurant which had interesting bean curries and omelets on the menu.  The pleasant waiter was proud to express that she made the crafty textile menu covers.  After our delicious meals we set off for the hike. I had been researching up on the trail for a few days as there are a few to choose from, keeping in mind Dad’s cumbersome knee. This was a great reference http://yamaonna.wordpress.com/2009/10/28/kamakura-daibutsu/

We paced ourselves from start to end, stopping to take in the peaceful environment at times and ogle at interesting properties. The trail runs on a long ridge from Kita-Kamkura Station ending at the famous giant Buddha Daibutsu, and is not a common thing to do when visiting Kamakura, therefore crossed paths with very few people: a peaceful change from this morning’s heaving Imperial Palace. The terrain was a little more undulating as what I had read and Dad was remaining optimistic however I identified his knee was bothering him. Mum well…she was a having a ball. We had fortunate weather and the setting sun was bathing the trail in a warm glow and by the time we finally reached the stunning Daibutsu we had just enough time to see it in full light. We took a rest then wandered slowly toward Hase station, popping into various small pottery, rice cracker and sweet shops. Night had well and truly fallen by the time we boarded the twin-carriage Enoshima Electric Railway to Kamakura station. We then again boarded the JR Yokosuka line back to Shinagawa Station. 

A close friend of mine from Melbourne had just arrived and we had arranged to catch up for dinner this-evening in Shinjuku. I thought it would be great to from quaint Kamakura to a throbbing Shinjuku to blast Mum and Dads senses. After some confusion about the meeting spot in Shinjuku (easily done), L and I were thrilled to see each other. So then Mum, Dad, L and I decided to have a DIY bbq feast at Don Don Yakiniku Restaurant Kabukicho. After a long stroll around the shady parts of Kabukicho (it is what it is at that time of the night) L and I then escorted Mum and Dad back to Shimbashi station via the Yamanote Line. L and I decided to make a dash to Beat Café in Shibuya for an hour so however it was closed so instead we chatted over a few beers at the downstairs gaijin speakeasy. We then parted ways to each catch the last train back to our respective hotels, however the damn Yamanote line terminated 4 stations of Shimabshi so I caught a cab the rest of the way. To wind down after another big day, I turned off the lights, slumped in the armchair and just stared out at the Tokyo landscape.

  

 

Last Day of Significant Year . M&D day 3

Today was the beginning of a 48 hour tourist and new year bender.  After heading out of the hotel and towards Ginza to check out the main drag, after realizing is was too early to experience the buzzing Ginza atmosphere I quickly made a change of plans to head to Yoyogi park and Meiji-Jingu Shrine instead. The weather was again beautiful and after stepping off the Yamanote train at Yoyogi station we headed for soba and then the park. We strolled through the park for about an hour or so, visiting Meiji-Jingu which was preparing for the New year masses. We ended up at the Harajuku end of the park by noon and proceeded to get amongst all the shopping pilgrims in Harajuku. After the peaceful nature of the park, Harajuku provided quite the contrast as Dad was quiet perplexed by the high pitched tone and persistence of the outlet girls screaming out various things. We made our way to the end of the main Harajuku spot and turned right to join on the parallel running Omotesando. We popped into a hat store and the Moma store before settling down for lunch at J.S burgers adjacent to the great gyouza place which was unfortunately closed. After a satisfying lunch, we continued East down Omtesando to see the remaining architectural icons of SANAA’s Dior building, Ando’s Omotesando Hills and Herzog&Demuron’s Prada building. We then jumped onto the Ginza Metro bound for Ginza. We emerged to the street level via the overwhelming Takashimya food section and began our stroll westerly on Chou-Dori. The street scape was lighting up by the time we hit my professors Tiffany&Co building however the vibe was of clam before the New Year storm.  After a coffee and scone break at a Café we wandered all the way back to our hotel in Shimbashi. After a nap we grabbed a taxi bound for Zojo-ji temple. Set in front of Tokyo tower, the Buddhist Zojo-ji temple was quite the spectacle and was alive with New Year pilgrims of all shapes, sizes and colors. We arrived close to eleven and people where pouring through the main gate prayer balloons in hand. Moved about and found a comfortable spot under the string of lanterns and large countdown clock. For the next hour or so we had to endure eavesdropping on boisterous Americans and Australians talking absolute garbage. I have to admit I have come across too many Australians overseas that portray us as boisterous bogans (annoying gaijins) who don’t give two bob about what is appropriate. Tonight was a key example. 

The time ticked closer towards 2012 and the speeches and vocal performances by the monks began. The atmosphere was unique given the vast range of cultures and New Year optimisms clashing in one arena. I can only imagine that the Japanese locals where wishing for a bright 2012. As we all know it has been a tragically significant year for the Japanese. The last ten minutes disappeared and the time came for the countdown and when 2012 arrived, 3000 balloons and blissful cheer erupted from the crowd. It was quite a moment. We all gazed at the prayer balloons disappearing into the night sky and then chuckled at the hundreds stuck in the surrounding trees. I finally got onto C who was somewhere in the crowd and my Parents and I managed to move out slowly and meet up with him and his female companion Y at the main gate. It was a quick hello and “happy new year” before the two parties went our separate ways. My Parents and I strolled back to the hotel, as I tried to establish over the phone where the rest of my New Years night was headed.