Starting early again, we jumped into a cab
bound for Tsukiji fish market. L and I arranged for us to meet at the McDonalds
on the corner near the entry, however I think google maps was a little confused
but nonetheless we eventually located each other. As we approached the entry
gate, a small congregation of people had gathered, distressed at the fact that
there was no public visits allowed at all today. Oh well, roll on. The morning was
crisp, and after observing Kisho Kurokawa’s
Nagakin Capsule tower our empty stomachs and chilled bodies found solace
in ham and cheese toasties and coffee at a Tully’s franchise. L realised she
needed to check out of her hotel so she bid adieu and rushed away. Next on the
itinerary was to stroll through the Hamarikyu Gardens. Upon paying our entry
fee the friendly ticket clerk pointed us in the direction of an annual hawking
display about to begin. We found a comfortable viewing spot, read over the English
flyer and waited patiently for the long announcements to end. Finally some
action, and the Hawkers of a niche school lead by what seemed a very senior
teacher showed their skill in choreographing the birds of prey to show their prowess.
However one stubborn hawk decided chillin’ the tree was a much better idea. We
watched for a while and then headed to the tea house on the lake for my parents
first tea ceremony experience. They were humbled by the gardens beauty, delicious
tea, red bean treat and the gentle and hospitable nature of the tea house personnel.
After chatting to some friendly locals,
we put our shoes back on, made our way across the bridge and continued our
discussion on the interesting nature of the pine trees in the garden. The Hamarikyu
Garden poses an interesting and distinctly Metropolitan Japan garden setting of
highly manicured landscape surrounded by tall and overwhelming structures of
steel and glass. We then boarded the ferry for 40 minute cruise up the Sumida
River. Now the Sumida River is no Teme or Grand Canal, it is banked by a
swelling concrete landscape and rather charming stocky iron bridges of which
there are 26. Tokyo in it’s Edo days was a large canal network as water travel
was the best way to move around, and so the Sumida river is a branch of the larger
Arakawa network which runs mainly under the cityscape we experience today. The
view of the Tokyo landscape on the water allows for a refreshing foreground
distance. Clear elevations of the buildings and layered infrastructure allow
the passengers to comprehend the sheer mass and complexity of the Tokyo
Megatropolis.
We docked in at a heaving Asakusa. The New
Year celebrations are in full swing, with hoards of people coming to bless in
the New Year at the famous Buddhist Senso-ji temple. After lamenting Philippe Starck's Asahi Beer hall design and admiring the height of the Tokyo sky tree we
headed through the Kaminarimon Gate towards the temple. The amount of people
was something Mum had not experienced often and it was difficult to get into the
many souvenir shops. It was a ‘pick a side and shuffle forward’ situation. The
atmosphere was fantastic, people where happy, the sun was out, we were all experiencing
something very foreign and festive. By the time we got to the Temple steps it
was full scrum. Mum disappeared and Dad and I bustled our way through. We all
threw our coins in the general direction everyone else was, and I then yanked
mum out of the sardine jar and quickly existed the Temple. A bustling food
market provided a well-deserved rest, delicious noodles, corn and Okonomiyake (Japanese omelet/pancake) of the
epic persuasion. We strolled through the
interesting shops I bought a great pair Jika Tabi (Japanese work boots) and we eventually
boarded the Ginza line back to Shinbashi chuffed by the day’s activities.
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